Fortress Scramble

The other big expedition I made this summer was upside the backside of Fortress Mountain. I've posted my pics on Flickr, and here are my "lessons learned" written up the day after:

Route:

Chester Lake parking lot, up the Headwall creek hiking trail to col at backside of Fortress Mountain, down to Chester Lake and back to parking lot. Chester Lake side is the harder approach because of the talus field at the foot of the bergschrund.

Lessons learned from first attempt (2004) :

Take enough food, take enough water, start early enough.

Lessons learned from this attempt:

• Don't get drunk the night before and leave your packing and lunch until the morning of, so you can actually start when you want to.
  
• Pulled Achilles tendon will slow you down on the descent, doubling the guide's recommended time.
  
• Shorts are inadequate in a high wind, heavy rains lighting storm. Take long pants, or at least zip-offs. Also, day-pack is not waterproof. [My dog was very pissed-off at me at this point, waiting for me to get my rain-pants on.]
  

Things done well:

• Water filter good idea [Instead of carrying 3 or 4 litres of water, I took 1 litre & a Katadyne water filter which weighs as much as a litre]
  
• Overpacking on the food also a good idea.
  
• The hat clip was good.

Next time:

• Long-legged pants.
• Prep gear and lunch the night before, before you get drunk.
  
• As well as location and expected return time, leave the local emergeny number and description of clothing & preperations with loved ones.
• Get a proper holster for bear spray.
• Leave PalmPilot and other little extras behind.
• Get a cover for the back-pack so that your gear stays dry.
• Also, when you can afford it, a good set up breathable rain-gear would be nice.
• Start a seperate packing list for scrambling.