Thursday, April 27, 2006

Setting Up Anchors

Today we introduce the complimentary term to the "European Death Knot" - the "Death Triangle", also known as the "American Triangle" if you're from Europe. Since you need to set up anchors at the the top of the climb (if you're not going to just throw on two opposed quickdraws and be done with it), it's good to know everything that might go wrong and how to avoid it.
Please don't, as one person recently told me they regularly did in the past, climb up to the anchors, and then have your belayer lower you after you've threaded through the bolts! This wears the anchors unnecessarily, and makes it unsafe for subsequent climbers. Learn to rappel instead, preferable from a certified instructor.


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